Vegan leather: How sustainable is it really and what are the alternatives?
Today I was discussing with another fellow vegan about vegan leather. For anyone who is unfamiliar with this term: Vegan leather is commonly made from polyurethane or polyvinyl chloride (PVC), thus plastic, and is frequently used by the fashion industry as a cruelty free version of real leather. But whilst there is no animal harmed, there are also some aspects that may raise concern. Whilst leather is biodegradable and long lasting, sometimes even passed on from generation to generation, fake leather won't biodegrate. Also, one has to take into account the differences in quality of the fake leather which have a big impact on its durability. PVC for example is known to be very durable but then hard degrade. Whilst this means that it will take years to break down, one can also argue that on the other hand it can be worn by many generations.
But let's take a closer look on what the problematic sites are of PVC. PVC basically results from a reaction between chlorine, carbon, and ethylene which is then further processed into the final material PVC. To artificially induce this reaction a lot of energy is required. Furhter, especially chlorine poses an environmental threat. It is known that already small quantities of chlorine are enough to negatively impact the environment and the living organisms. Through chemical reactions in the air or water, this industry creates unwanted side-effects such as acid rains or water that end up containing carzinogenes known to cause cancer.
So having said that, you might think I want to argue for the use of real leather. That's not my point though. While untreated leather might biodegrate, the dyes used in the production process are heavily chemical and are a main concern to worker's health and a burden to the environment as well. Let's not to speak of the unethical and unsustainable aspects surrounding cettle breeding for the leather industry. But fortunately, the industry is working hard on innovative materials to create an alternative to using real leather or plastic leather. So let's take a closer look at these alternatives.
Pinatex
Yes, there is such a thing as leather made from pineapples. The pinapple leafs that are used to make Pinatex are a byproduct of already existing agriculture. As opposed to plastic leather it's a natural alternative that is "made from a natural waste product, created with low water use and low production waste and containing no harmful chemicals or animal products" (Source).
For more information on Pinatex click here.
Appleleather
The Swiss company Happy Genie uses the waste created by the food industry to create a leather alternative made from appples. By using a waste product that is on top of that natural, apple leather creates a further sustainable alternative to plastic leather. Definitely an innovation one needs to know about.
SnapPap
SnapPap is leather made from paper. To be precise: It is made from a mixture of cellulose and latex and one of it's greatest advantages is that it's washable. Further, it's tear-resistant and neither puts a strain on the environment nor our health. It's also a great material to be used in DIY projects and can be easily processed at home while crafting.
Find more information about SnapPap here.
Corkleather
Corkleather looks pretty similar to leather but is sourced form trees. Brands such as Corkor have mastered the art of producing bags made from this sustainable and lightweight leather alternative. Besides being cruelty-free of course, cork leather is very lightweight as compared to real leather but is resistant to abrasion as well as water resistent.
Click here if you want to know more about Corkor.
If you're looking for a vegan cork leather jacket, have a look at the label Ovide.
Alter-nappa
Alter-nappa is an innovative vegetarian leather used by star designer Stella McCartney. Whilst not being plastic free, alter-nappa is still a better alternative to pure PVC or polyurethane. It's made from polyester and polyurethane which reduces the petroleum footprint of the material. Further, fifty percent of the coating of alter-nappa comes from a renewable ressource, namely vegetable oil (Source).
More information can be found by clicking here.
Barkcloth - Barktex
Barkcloth originates from Uganda and is said to be the oldest textile of humanity. It is sourced from the bark of the"Mutuba" fig tree which can be found in Eastern Africa. The benefit of barkcloth is that the tree doesn't need to be cut for this process and the manufacturing process has a low environmental impact in terms of emitted CO2 gasses and energy consumption (Source).
*Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links, however be aware that it's always an honest recommendation*
Sources:
https://goodonyou.eco/how-sustainable-is-pvc/
https://enviroliteracy.org/special-features/its-element-ary/chlorine/
http://snap-pap.de
https://www.ananas-anam.com
https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/sustainability/materials-and-innovation/vegetarian-leather/
https://www.barktex.com/en
https://happy-genie.com